MGB GHN3L131923 - 2007 October Wire Wheels

Sand blasted, primed, and painted the wire wheels with Eastwood Detail Silver finished with Dupli-color Clear wheel paint. Purchased and mounted Vredstein Sprints 165SR from Universal Vintage Tire near Hershey PA. One wheel wobbled on the balancing machine so that one will be replaced with another from the extras stored in the garage. When weather permits another wheel will be sandblasted and painted. Four steps forward and one step back.

Wind screen and frame work in progress. A new clear windscreen ordered from The Roadster Factory arrived in one piece. During the 4 week wait another windscreen frame with Triplex glass was won on eBay. The glass has some wiper marks so a polishing kit was purchased from Eastwood. A search is underway for anodizing the windscreen frame side pillars. The aluminum pillars on the three frames in the garage have wear and corrosion on the anodized finish. The top and bottom pieces will be sanded and polished. Then the fun begins to get the glass into the frame.

It's time to start thinking about rebuilding the engine, which parts and where to buy them.

MGB GHN3L131923 - 2007 April Interior

Carpet from BHive. Moss Motors panel kit. Original rubber floor mats eBay. Dash repainted with black wrinkle. New dash pad mounted to the dash. Door caps recovered with black vinyl supplied with the Moss kit. Seats with new foam and diaphrams recovered with leather kits from MG Centre UK restored earlier during the project bolt to the floor. The Les Leston steering wheel is restored. The wooden rim is reglued, coated with polyurethane, and the center spokes polished. The LL steering wheel will be exchanged with a original banjo steering if the car is presented for judging.
interior interior
interior interior
signed rubbing
interior interior
interior interior
interior interior
interior interior
interior interior
interior interior
interior interior
interior interior
interior interior
interior interior  
interior  

MGB GHN3L131923 - 2007 March Wiring

Wiring. The car was stripped to the bare shell for painting and all the wiring was removed. Pictures were taken of the wiring in the area of the engine compartment and under the dash before it was removed. A good wiring diagram was copied from the Bentley book and enlarged for easy reading. A new wiring loom was purchased from British Wiring. Before the wiring loom was installed it was was sprayed with Sunbrella 303 fabric protection to keep it looking new. A battery charger was connected to the wiring to check the wiring an lights. New wire, clean connections, dielectric grease will keep the Lucas curse away.
wiring wiring
wiring wiring
wiring wiring
wiring wiring
wiring wiring
wiring wiring

MGB GHN3L131923 - 2006 June

The assembly process begins. The first part to go back on the car is the fresh air vent drain tube. The heater is the next. Now an awareness and caution overcomes the enthusiasm, BE CAREFUL, don't scratch the paint. Parts are going back on the car much slower than when they were removed. One tip I learned from Carl Heideman, Eclectic Motorworks, at a Tech Seminar held during the Carlisle Import Show, was to have all the parts refurbished, cleaned, and ready to install with required hardware and gaskets. His main point was to do this as the parts are removed from the car so everything can be boxed, labeled, and stored. Well that tip was too late for me, the car was already stripped, but over the years of the project during the winter months many of the parts were rebuilt, painted, and cleaned.

MGB GHN3L131923 - 2005 October Painting

Paint, what do I know about paint? Nothing. After the bodywork was finished, I went to my local automotive paint supply store C.A.R.S. and explained to them that I wanted to paint a car. Rick was a big help and explained the process. Rick also sold me all the paint, hardeners, solvents, and other supplies.
Rinshed-Mason
1 gal of epoxy primer, 1 qt activator
1 gal of filler/sealer primer - same base, different additives
3 qt of color (tartan red)
1 gal clear, 1 qt activator 1 gal reducer
1 gal SEM Proliner bedliner
$1700 with all the supplies, wipes, sandpaper, tape, buffers, etc.
After reading the information Rick provided on the R-M paint, I decided to invest in a HobbyAir respirator system to protect myself. The unit draws fresh air from the outside and pumps it into a mask or hood. The garage was ventilated with an attic house fan through vents I had built into the floor. The car was stripped down to bare metal and wiped with tack cloth.

Paint step 1, spray the entire car with an epoxy primer. I mixed the paint and hardener and poured it into the inexpensive Devilbis gravity feed HVLP spray gun. I put on my space suit an tested the spray pattern. The first painting was applied to the bottom of the car on the chassis. The car was on a rotisserie and tilted on its side for this application. To my surprise, everything went well. No, runs, drips, or errors. I continued to spray the entire car with the epoxy primer. The epoxy primer was block sanded with 400 grit paper and any body imperfections revealed were fixed and resprayed.

Filler primer was srayed on the body next and block sanded with 400 grit paper. The sealer primer was srayed over the filler primer. By this time I have had practice and more experience with the spray gun.

Next, the colour tartan red RD9 was sprayed on in three coats following the instructions to allow the paint to flash 15-20 minutes between coats. Finally the last step in the spraying process was to clear coat the color. The clear coat was sprayed on about a week after the colour because of the weather. It was nearing the end of October and there were a few days when the weather did not cooperate with daytime and evening temperatures in the 50s. The clear paint needed to be applied in temperatures above 60 degrees. The clear coats were the most difficult to spray because of the fog it created in the workspace. It made it difficult to see and resulted in a few runs and missed edges. Fortunately 3 coats were applied and missed edges were covered.

The car was left to dry for a month before the final wet sanding with 1200 grit to 2000 grit paper. Not done yet, the clear coat needs to be buffed with a combination of compounds and pads to a brilliant shine. Now its done.